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Includes: Stepped drill bit, tap, and insert installation tool.
These tools are specifically selected to be compatible with the Threaded Inserts sold on this site. Note that not all thread cutting taps will cut deeply enough to work - this one does. For installing inserts, you will also need general purpose epoxy (approx. 1 packet per 15 inserts). If you need a tap handle for the tap we have those available for purchase.
Posted by Unknown on 8th Jan 2021
The shoulder on the depth-stop drill bit is much too small. The tap, depth-stop bit and installation hardware is of excellent quality. Now let me explain.
I agree with other reviews on the importance of practicing on furniture-grade skis. Everyone loves a nice coat rack or adirondack chair made from old skis. That's what you'll want to practice on to get the feel of punching through the topsheet, glass and wood. I would not waste time practicing on 2x4 lumber.
The installation margin of error is zero. If the holes are not perfectly square, you won't be able to thread in the screws. To overcome this we used the Jigarex jig for drilling and taping the holes. We've been using the jigarex for traditional mounts for a few years and love it. Using the jig eliminated the margin of error in our practice runs on "furniture grade skis", but created a unique problem.
You cannot see the shoulder of the depth-stop drill bit, since it is in the jig and the shoulder is too small to offer adequate resistance once you reach your depth, allowing for over drilling your depth. You have this same issue of drilling blind doing a traditional mount. However, the shoulder on a Winersteiger bit or others used for conventional binding mount is huge and offers a good amount of resistance once you have hit your depth.
Not sure what I'm talking about? Do a google search for depth-stop bit or Winersteiger bit and you'll see the size comparison.
We were doing this on the junker skis, so when we put a hole all the way through the skis, we decided we needed to crack another beer and take a break. I imagine it could be really easy to mess up skis that do not have metal in them, e.g., park, powder boards, touring equipment, etc.
Again, why is this an issue? Isn't it just operator error? Well yes it is operator error. But the whole point of a depth-stop bit is to keep this from happening. The shoulder of the depth-stop bit should offer enough resistance to let you know to stop when you are drilling blind with the jig.
This issue would be easily resolved with a larger shoulder on the depth-stop bit.
For an experienced binding tech, this better not be an issue. Right, your trained and certified, e.g., https://www.certified-technician.com. For the average person with some DIY fortitude, an 18v cordless drill, and some free time, head this warning.
I highly recommend the Jigarex jig to help keep those holes square, but it does create this new complication. Once we figured this out, we had no problems after our practice mounts on the furniture-grade skis.
I'll probably use my forstner bit to widen that hole, make a few more holes, and drop my shot glasses into it for a nice shotski.
It still gets a four star rating, as there is nothing inherently off with the craftmanship. It just lacks the full capacity to achieve its purpose of mitigating operator error.
In the meantime, think snow!
Posted by Mike Siemens on 24th Oct 2016
This kit should make installation of the inserts I ordered much slicker, with less chance of messing up. Quality hardware, exceptional service. You're going to find it difficult, if not impossible to find these items at your local hardware store... that is, unless you happen to live in Boise, ID.
Posted by Josh on 25th Nov 2014
Good kit as advertised. Check out the instructional videos how to do it. A relative novice, that was my main reference resource. Not too hard if you pay close attention. A good idea to practice a few times on 2x4s, and maybe old skis before doing a brand new set of skis.